![]() ![]() ATC Alpine Guide: This is a specialized device designed for super skinny double ropes (6.9-9.0 mm).If you eventually want to progress to leading multipitch climbs, it’s not a bad idea to invest in one of these at the start – it’s only a few more dollars and will prevent you needing to buy more kit later. ATC Guide: The most full-featured version of the ATC, this one has an additional circle of metal attached which is used for multipitch climbing and belaying from above.ATC-XP: A tube device but with teeth on one side for added friction while lowerting, catching lead falls, and rappelling.Basic ATC: A simple tube, cheap, works for belaying and rappelling.The ATC comes in a few variations: the basic ATC, the ATC-XP, the ATC Guide, and the ATC Alpine Guide. The single-slot ATC sport has since been replaced by the ATC Pilot, and the ATC Alpine Guide has been added to the lineup for skinny ropes. ![]() Which ATC Should I Buy? An old Black Diamond promotional image showing the different ATC models. The number one rule of belaying is pay attention to your climber, so many feel the ATC teaches good fundamentals, because the stakes are a bit higher than with a Gri-Gri. To follow: broken legs ambulance guilt disrupted friendships etc. If the belayer panics and does not grip the brake strand, the device won’t lock, climber goes splat. The one downside to an ATC versus a Gri-Gri is that an inattentive belayer using an ATC can easily drop their climber to the ground. The ATC Guide variant works really well for belaying from above on multipitch climbs. It works well for belaying top-rope, belaying a leader, and rappelling. (ATC officially stands for “Air Traffic Control”, but everyone calls it “ATC” or a “tube-style belay device”) Below, we’ll go over some of the basic Gri-Gri or ATC arguments, and explain a bit about how both devices might fit into your climbing goals. That said, both devices have their place, and an experienced climber will own and know how to use both. There are pros and cons on each side, but to give you the Cliff Notes, we believe that a beginner climber is best served by learning to belay on a Petzl Gri-Gri.Īlthough the ATC is lighter and a little more versatile for outdoor climbing, the Gri-Gri’s assisted locking feature clearly increases safety. This is the biggest question a beginner rock climber will have to answer as she purchases her starter gear. ![]()
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